Bonzer Cross Tiger Manuals
Fitness manuals and free pdf instructions. Find the personal fitness user manual you need at ManualsOnline. Tiger Games Manuals. Cross tiger hbx bonzer with 560 motor. Bobby Tanner beats Screamin Blue like a rented mule on the AOP $25,000 Bounty Hill - Duration: 5:45. David Vaughn 7,718,509 views.
Hello Im new here and also new to RC anything. The last rc car I owned was the original tyco rebound!!!
Lol Anyways I have a Bonzer Cross Tiger and it is having a HUGE problom. As soon as I turn on the truck it makes a buzzing noise then it goes full power in rev.
Define Bonzer
Then full power in forward,and while all that happening the front wheels are ither twitching or moving left to right, and get this the receiver (controler) isnt even on,and when I turn the receiver on it just continues to be out of control!!! I took out 'crystals' (I think theyre called that) and swaped them with another car and I got the exact same results!!!
Please help me!!!! Pm me here or email me at Phelansa 12:35 AM. Hello Hybrid, Well, let me state the obvious first. You ALWAYS turn your Radio on before you power the car. It might be that you do not have comms betwen your radio and reciever. That would be the first thing to check.
Can you steer the car at all? If you can controll the wheels it might just be that you need to set your ESC. Actually a very simple procedure that is explained fairly well in the manual. On the other hand. If you do not have the experiance problem solving RC, just take the Bonzer back to where you purchased it and have the shop owner sort it out for you. Too slow 07:51 PM.
If a video came with the truck always watch it before you ever first drive the truck expecially if your a newb the reson you turn the transmitter on and reciever on before starting the engine is because when the truck and the reciver is on but transmitter is not the truck is then vulnerable to other radio contacts in the area that is why people buy a failsafe a failsafe is a device that doesn't allow the truck to take off when the transmitter is dead or is off but the reciever and truck are on the truck wont go anywhere. Without the transmitter on and in control. NOTE THE FAILSAFE ONLY WORKS WHEN THE RECIVER IS ON also if you use alkaline batteries dont.
Buy a humppack only at rc shops walmart dont have those they sell junk cars like tyco and other junk. And replace the AA batteries used on the truck they are rechargable and last long The Hybrid 09:45 PM. The ESC is the part that controlls your motor. It connects to the battery on one side and tho motor on the other. There is a 3 core wire that runs from your reciever to the ESC. Normally there is a little button on the ESC labled 'Set'.
Typically the steps to program an ESC will go something like this. Turn on the power to the Transmitter, Then power to the car.
With the Throttle in Neutral position, Push the button down (0.5 secs or so) 3. The light on the ESC will start flashing 4. Pull the Throttle all the way in. Push the set button. The light will change its flashing patern.
Push the Throttle all the way to Reverse. Push the 'Set' button. The steps above are typical for a Tamiya ESC. For the specific model of ESC refer to your manual. But as a rule it is a very simple procedure. The Hybrid 11:02 PM. I started the same way last year (almost, started with a cheesy 6 volt formula) Now I have - 2 Tamiya baja king clones, one with a snapped chasis, upgraded motors, controller, esc (you'd have to replace the one on the tiger to get it to run well) - 1 Himoto Torpeda(very similar to Kysho MP7.5) pro(w alum.
Upgrades installed), spektrum controller, shell, tyres, springs. Still not done:D Going to have fun! - 1 Hispeed Tornado (truck version of my Torpeda, originally bought on ebay for backup parts, lol, turned out awesome, need bigger truck!) - 1 Smartech 1/6 scale (arrives valentines day, price was too good to pass up, link below, can't let wife see, she can have flowers or something) The Hybrid 10:59 PM.
Radio Controlled Models From Around The WORLD 1/10 Scale Electric Monster Truck: HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger - # 6518 Navigation: All Manufacturers: History, Info and How To Set-up Tips, for the Bonzer Cross Tiger: Introduced by HaiBoxing Racing (HBX) circa 2005, the 4WD Bonzer Cross Tiger Monster Truck - # 6518 - came with a 540 motor, ESC and radio system. Later versions were upgraded with a 550L motor, battery, and 2.4Ghz radio system. The model was basically a Tamiya TL01 clone, and was shaft driven, on a molded plastic spine type chassis, with gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, dogbone drive-shafts, and ball bearings. To race the HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger, you need to tweak and adjust all you can to give your car improved handling, stability and grip to ease around the curves and keep you on the track. One little setting change can transform your car into a world beater. Just follow our chart to attain the most favourable to suit your particular needs on any track.
Learn what to look for when you search for the right for your Bonzer Cross Tiger, and achieve the best, for the best performance and put you on the winners rostrum. See how the highest level racers optimise and halve the friction of their with some easy to implement tips. Discover what you can do to avert and the optimum conditions to Charge your, to help keep them in good condition and give you excellent performance. ★ HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger ★ ★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★ Radio Controlled Models. RC Manufacturers.
HBX Bonzer: Models and Spare Parts, For Sale in the USA ★ HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger ★ ★ HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger Chassis ★ ★ HBX Bonzer Cross Tiger Chassis ★ Buying a Used HBX Bonzer Monster Truck. Buying a used HBX Bonzer Electric Monster Truck, or any used RC Model, has a number of advantages. It is generally cheaper than new, ready built and may come with a variety of expensive hop-ups already installed.
Cheap, pre-loved bargains are always becoming available. However, depending on the age of your purchase, it may need a little tender loving care before you can take it out on the back yard. The one thing you will always need is an instruction manual.
If not supplied with your purchase, they can often be downloaded from the website, or purchased separately on eBay. With an instruction manual, any problems with your model Monster Truck you may discover can easily be fixed.
When you receive your used HBX Monster Truck, make a general visual inspection of the chassis, front and rear wishbones, suspension shock towers etc, for anything broken that may need to be replaced. Then, take a screwdriver and box spanner and check each self tapping screw and nut for security, taking care not to over tighten. Next, for those HBX models with oil filled shock absorbers, remove them from the chassis and dismantle the coil springs. The damper shafts should push in and pull out with a smooth action. If you feel a jolt as you change direction, this means the oil has leaked out and must be topped up.
At the same time, change the O-Ring seals to prevent more leakage. Also check the damper shafts for damage. If they are scratched, change them as soon as possible. If the body shell of your HBX Bonzer is broken, ripped or damaged in any way, this can be easily repaired with rubber solution glue. Also, for added protection and if available for your Bonzer model, fit an under guard to stop dirt and gravel entering the chassis.
Examine the drive shafts for wear and replace as required. If possible, change them for titanium. The steel shafts wear and bend too easily. If you intend to race your Bonzer Monster Truck model at a competitive level, I would also recommend you obtain and fit titanium pivot shafts, turnbuckles, tie rods and steering rods. The gearbox of your used Monster Truck should be opened up to check for gear wear and lubrication. A thin coat of grease is often used on internal gears and although this is fine for basic running around on the back yard, if you intend to race your Monster Truck at a higher level, this should be removed and replaced with racing oil (ZX1 or Teflon Oil).
Of course, this should be reapplied after each race meeting. Gears are a weakness on all Monster Truck RC models. Head on collisions can easily damage the gear teeth on nylon and plastic spur gears.
Heavy impacts can also loosen the nuts or self tapping screws that hold the Electric Motor in Position, allowing the pinion gear to pull out of mesh slightly and rip the tops off the teeth on your spur gear. To minimise this possibility, fit bolts with locking nuts to the Electric Motor mount and remember to check them for security after every two or three runs.
Ball joints always cause problems. For top level Electric Monster Truck racing, the plastic ball connectors should be checked and if deemed necessary changed after every meeting. A simple thing like a loose fitting connector popping off could easily end your race, so better safe than sorry. The Bonzer steering servo is also prone to damage. In high speed crash situations, the fragile gear teeth of the servo can be broken off, rendering your expensive servo useless, so be sure to obtain a good quality 'Servo Saver'.
Check out my article. If body roll on your HBX Bonzer is a problem, handling can be improved with the use of stabilizers, anti roll or sway bars, stiffer tuning springs and, or, thicker silicone oil in the dampers. If your used HBX Monster Truck comes with plastic and sintered brass ring type bearings, check the shafts that run in them for wear. Dust and grit can get into these bearings and abrade the shafts. Therefore, you should replace them all with shielded ball bearings. If the model has been run with ring type bearings, you may have to change all the axles and driveshafts.
For more information, take a look at my article, Finally, good luck with your Bonzer model and good racing. For More on how to Setup your Monster Truck, check out my page. ★ RC Information and Advice ★. ★ Radio Controlled Model Accessories: ★ Hints and Tips Sway Bars On most forms of RC model cars, Sway Bars, also referred to as Stabilizers, Torsion Bars, or more commonly in some parts as Anti Roll Bars, are often nothing more than a short length of spring steel, clamped to the chassis or sometimes the gearbox of the car, extending out to the lower wishbones direct or connected to the wishbones using short adjustable or fixed length links and ball joints, depending on their position. The principal behind the Sway Bar is simple.
As the car enters a corner, weight is transferred to the outside wheels, the chassis rolls due to inertia and the suspension dips and grip on the inside wheels is reduced. In an effort to counter this dipping effect and transfer some grip back to the inside wheels to improve traction as you exit the corner, the sway bars transfer the dip of the outside, to pull down the inside wishbones, improving grip on the outside wheels and improving overall stability. Sounds complicated I know, but for some tracks sway bars can be a useful tool when you have exhausted all other options to correct your handling problems. Tuning your Sway Bars is quite easy.
Some manufacturers do offer colour coded tuning sets with varying thicknesses of spring steel wire, but the best way is to change the position the bar is attached to the wishbone, or on some variations you have the option of positioning the link on the Sway Bar itself. By simply moving a small collet clamped along the short length of the bar. Closer to the central pivot point reduces the leverage of the bar and effectively increasing its resistance, further away from the pivot point reducing resistance. More fine tuning can be achieved by adjusting the length of the turnbuckle link (if available) to pre load the bar. Personally, before I ever installed any sway bars I would always try changing damper tuning springs and oil viscosity settings, especially if the track was uneven and bumpy, in which case the effectiveness of the bars was minimal if at all.
For those more into Drifting, Sway Bars can be an easy way to fine tune your car. A single turn on the turnbuckle links can be a way to simply increase or decrease wheel traction that minute amount you need to get the perfect balance. For more on how to use Sway Bars check out our Set-up tips page linked below. For More Setup Information check out my page.
Hints and Tips Bearings If you are serious about your racing, looking after your bearings is essential if you are to remain competitive. My own experience is in both Off and On Road, National and International Car racing, but most of these tips could be useful to all forms of RC.
Shields: The main problem with Ball Bearing Shields is they create friction, and obviously the more you can reduce friction, the more efficient your bearings will be, so here's a tip that does just that. Wheel Bearings always come in pairs, positioned side by side. If you think about it, the two inside shields on each bearing are not required, so. You can remove them using a small jewelers screwdriver. And in one fell swoop you have halved your wheel bearing friction. Cleaning: All Bearings need to be cleaned from time to time.
Depending on how focused and competitive you are, this can be as often as after each race meeting, or just once or twice a year. For Club Meetings once or twice a year might be all you need if you are easily beating your competition, but for the BIG meets you need that extra 5% or 10% just to be up with the rest.
What you need is a small glass jar, a jewelers screwdriver, an old tooth brush and some Isopropanol. Remove the shields, then drop the bearings in the jar, add some Isopropanol, pop on the lid and shake well. Empty them out, give them a good brushing and make sure they spin free then repeat the process. Clean the shields separately. Once you are satisfied, lay them on a piece of kitchen roll and allow to dry. Lubrication: The arguments I have had about what lubrication to use you wouldn't believe.
Some of the top racers of my day swore they didn't use any at all, but cleaned out the original lubrication and ran them dry. They also admitted to fitting a new set after each meeting. Well, they were getting them for free. My tip is, yes even with a new set of bearings, clean out the original lubrication (as described above) and with one shield in place use the thinnest oil you can find. I recommend ZX1 (Zed Ex One) or sewing machine oil.
For More Setup Information check out my page. On/Off Road RC Models: Other RC Models: Radio Equipment: Accessories.